Rihanna's See-Through Dress Just Undermines Her Strength as a Woman

June 3, 2014, 6:15 am

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Rihanna has always very categorically stated that she's not a role model and doesn't market herself as such, which is probably a savvy move considering most stars who promote themselves as holier-than-thou almost always end up falling off their pedestal.

But this CFDA photo, where she is photographed wearing a see-through dress while picking up her Fashion Icon award, is the straw that broke the feminist's back.

This feminist's back, to be precise.



Such a dress would be fine in the pages of Vogue, much harder to keep off the smartphones of schoolkids.

This dress, judging by her 'I dare you to say something' stance in the photo, is a statement. Yet it tells you nothing about her brain, what she's thinking or her achievements - this just reduces her to her body parts, and that I do have a problem with.

Some of the defence may be that she gets away with it - Jezebel congratulated her on for being so confident to pull it off.

The latter may be true, but you don't see people handing German naturists awards for being body confident.

If I sound like I'm skirting around the issue, that's because there's no way of saying 'Rihanna, please put some clothes on' without sounding like an utter prude.

Rihanna's confidence and don't-care-attitude is one of the things I love about her, so I think what pains me about this photo is that it's really hard to respect this. That she looks stunning is not called into question - of course she does, she's beautiful and she's Rihanna.

But at what point does confidence bleed into the bloody stupid?

While Rihanna - like other women - shouldn't pay attention to online trolls or perverts - it's a bit baffling that she continues to post pictures of herself semi-nude while people - literally - offer to jizz on her face.

And it's hard to not lament the fact that this confidence and bolshyness isn't harnessed in a better way. In the same way that Beyonce finally took up the mantle of feminism and became an advocate for equality, can you imagine how powerful it would be if Rihanna did the same for self confidence?

Perhaps I should just lighten up.

But there's nothing spontaneous about this choice of outfit - it was chosen for an event honouring her and so was most likely (and depressingly) carefully considered by herself.

So it makes me wonder: what is Rihanna thinking?

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Glamour Awards 2014 Red Carpet Pictures: Best And Worst Dressed Stars At The Women Of The Year Awards (PHOTOS)

June 4, 2014, 12:55 am

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Celebs including Helen Mirren, Naomi Campbell and ‘Britain’s Got Talent’ judges Amanda Holden and Alesha Dixon were out in force last night at the 2014 Glamour Women Of The Year Awards at Berkeley Square Gardens.

The stars took to the red carpet in array of different outfits ranging from the super formal - Jameela Jamil in a Vivienne Westwood wedding dress - to more casual, edgy looks.

‘Strictly Come Dancing’ presenter Claudia Winkleman opted for a smart navy ensemble, accessorised with neon pink shoes while Sharon Osbourne went for an interesting lilac maxi dress.

While the event may focus on celebrating the achievements of women, there were obviously a number of men in attendance too, including David Gandy and fashion designer Julien Macdonald and host Graham Norton.

Before we find out who bagged themselves an award, it’s time to cast an eye over all the hottest - and most shocking - red carpet looks showcased at the swish bash.

Who rocked and who shocked on the red carpet? Let us know your thoughts by voting below...

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Glamour Awards 2014 Winners' List: Helen Mirren, Davina McCall And Naomi Campbell Win At Women Of The Year Awards

June 4, 2014, 1:51 am

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Tuesday night’s Glamour Women Of The Year Awards saw a numbers of fabulous female celebs out in force, ready to celebrate their achievements throughout the last year.

The Berkeley Square Gardens bash saw prizes handed out to the likes of Emma Willis, who scooped the Presenter prize, and Fearne Cotton, who took home the Radio Personality gong for what feels like the 20th year running.

Pictures: Who wore what at the Glamour Women Of the Year Awards?

Helen Mirren was the star of the show, giving a tremendous speech - including a shockingly rude joke, naturally - as she accepted the Glamour Icon Award.

Not all of the winners could be present though, and Nicole Kidman accepted her prize via video link, while wearing her pyjamas.

See the full list of this year’s winners below...

UK Solo Artist - Paloma Faith

Fashion Designer - Simon Rocha

TV Personality - Naomi Campbell

Presenter - Emma Willis

Sportswoman - Christine Ohuruogu

Comedy Actress - Sarah Hyland

Columnist - Jane Moore

International Solo Artist - Taylor Swift

Film Maker - Lake Bell

Radio Personality - Fearne Cotton

Next Breakthrough - Lily James

Accessories Designer - Katie Hillier

Band - Little Mix

UK TV Actress - Jenna Coleman

Writer - Helen Fielding

Theatre Actress - Billie Piper

Outstanding Contribution - Nicole Kidman

International TV Actress -Emily Vancamp

Entrepreneur - Alexa Chung

Man Of The Year - Sam Claflin

Editor’s Special Award - Taylor Schilling

Glamour Hero - Davina McCall

Film Actress - Sally Hawkins

Glamour Icon - Dame Helen Mirren

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Bold Summer Prints: The Best on the High-Street

June 4, 2014, 4:54 am

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Two posts in one week?! I couldn't resist... I've been spending my birthday money and have come across some beautiful things on the high street that I just had to share. Whilst the sun may not be shining, the shops are still celebrating the summer months with bold and beautiful prints and here are a few of my high street favourites...

Marks & Spencer Kaftan

I noticed the latest in-store M&S marketing campaign focus's mainly on press coverage for their key pieces. This beautiful embellished beach kaftan appeared in Vogue so I am expecting it to be snapped up pretty quickly, I just wish I'd seen it before my holiday!



Dune Espadrilles

I LOVE these animal print espadrilles by Dune, they immediately caught my eye and are a brilliant addition to any summer casual shoe collection!



Miss Selfridge Shift Dress

This is my second shift dress from Miss Selfridge, I absolutely love them! They are the most flattering cut and have a stretch to the fabric that give you shape where other shift dresses fail. This monochrome number can be dressed down with sporty white pumps or pushed to the ultimate 60′s glamour with summer heels.



Zara Wrap Top

This slinky wrap top screams summer glamour worn with skinny jeans and sparkly heels!




Please stop by my other blog at Scarlett and Me for more on practical fashion for mums and their babes :)

L4L Clothing SS14: Print Is In!

June 4, 2014, 6:45 am

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L4L Clothing launched a full on assault of full body print tees and mini dresses for this summer season!
The cleverly titled Tee-V Series & 2 design Brick Wear collection hit their online store this month and is set to be the must-have items for summer festival season.

LEGO Brick Full body print design for L4L's Brick Wear collection

The front runner, for the London based brand, is their LEGO bricks printed full body on polyester mini dresses and t-shirts. The bold primary colours of the Lego bricks will remind most adults of their childhood (or children's bedroom floor!) and adds a colourful look for the summer wardrobe.

The Lego-lution will not be televised! Test Screen tee & dress.

L4L Tee-V Series. 1 of 3 designs including 'White Noise' & 'TV Bar', this classic Test Screen print adds geometrical and a retro theme for those who like to a little dress loud.
Based off sales and requests, this is the most popular of the SS14 collection from L4L.

CHECKMATE with the monochrome unisex tee and dress for her.

2nd of L4L Clothings Brick Wear collection, the check items will be popular with those self styling individuals looking to add a strong but cool, 2 colour combo for the warm months to come.

...to top it off, L4L LEGO Medusa Bucket hat

The LEGO Medusa design returns with an addition to the collection in the form of this summers must have, the bucket hat. Strong bold print around the circumference of the brim means you can be spotted a mile off in heaving festival crowds.
Finished off with the L4L signature Lego piece on the side of the hat, this tops off the look for L4L Clothing's range SS14.

All items can be bought online on lyrics4lyrics.co.uk
selected items in store at YearZero 37 Beak St W1F 9RZ from mid June.
enquiries: paul@lyrics4lyrics.com

Photography: Lloyd Astorelli Models: Jonathan & Crystal Edit: Michael Daley

Regent Street: The Menswear Edit

June 5, 2014, 6:23 am

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One of my favourite shopping destinations, paired with one of my favourite events of the year: Regent Tweet 2014. The annual event sees bloggers from across the globe take to one of London's most famous shopping streets and make it their playground for one day only. From fashion to food, I visited retailers from top to bottom, and made lots of new discoveries along the way.

The day kicked off with a great talk from Damien Whitmore, who is the director of the V&A museum. Being my most loved museum in London, I was really interested to hear his views regarding the import role that museums play in giving the back-story and history of style. His talk centered around the importance of looking further than simply loving and item, but why we love it and how it came to be. Equally the value of exhibitions being curated by an external body, so each collection is looked at from a fresh and unbiased angle.





Brooks Brothers, 150 Regent Street.
My first destination for the day was Brooks Brothers, which involved a great introduction to the rich history behind the iconic American brand. Established in 1818, they have a lot of experience in tailoring, from costuming much of the visually exciting, The Great Gatsby, through to dressing almost every US President. Fact finders would be interested to hear that Abraham Lincoln was even wearing a Brooks Brothers suit on the night of his Assassination. They certainly know how to deliver on classic style, and their gloriously crisp Button-Down shirt is a must for any man who means business, and should also travel well with its non-iron credentials. Quality is key with this brand and every item feels like it could be a staple of your wardrobe for a long time to come. They also have a selection of light and colourful summer looks, perfect for a more relaxed - yet always stylish - summer occasion.





Hackett, 193-197 Regent Street.
The Hackett store has a great presence on Regent Street, with a wonderfully fun and quintessentially British interior. After an insightful talk from the main man, Jeremy Hackett, you could see his personality had transferred to the store, with nice touches including a classic bar and in-store shoe shining. I really loved their range of luggage and accessories, which would be the perfect accompaniment for any travelling gent. I know some believe you can tell a lot about a person by their shoes, but you see what is on their shoulders long before your eyes reach the ground.





Karl Lagerfeld, 145-147 Regent Street.
There was naturally a lot of buzz earlier in the year, around the opening of the Karl Lagerfeld store on Regent Street, however this is my first visit. The interior plays great homage to the man himself, being a contemporary look at a traditional black and white fashion maison. The walls are lined with sketches by Mr Lagerfeld, with the fashions in close proximity, so you get a great look at the process from sketch to store. The interior is a fusion of stylish clothes, along with a range of Karl themed goodies from iphone covers to figurines. On the day, we celebrated "Karlisms", and of course I added a few "Richisms" of my own.





Reiss, 172 Regent Street.
I am a big fan of Reiss menswear, so it was great to check out their personal shopping floor, nestling nicely above their Regent Street store. Being a stunning location, it was great to talk with resident stylist, Rachel Booth, and get a little introduction into the looks she was most excited about. I am a big convert to pastels this season and Reiss always manages to get the perfect hue of pink and blues. I also really liked the colour, I like to call 'toasted marshmallow', seen in some of their suits and accessories for SS14.

Find out more about Regent Street and its stores by visiting: regentstreetonline.com

Technology Will Stop Fashion History Repeating Itself

June 5, 2014, 6:42 am

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The problems facing shoppers ordering clothes online are the same as those that faced mail order shoppers over eighty years ago

Just like history, fashion repeats itself. All fashion trends eventually return to vogue.

Padded shoulders, flares and tracksuits. They've all been at points mocked and decried as fashion crimes so awful they could never possibly return to the mainstream ever again. Yet, return they do.

But it isn't just the fashion that comes back into play, the business and shopping trends around the industry do too.

Trends from the past

The history of ready-to-wear fashion (that is 'off the peg' clothing, rather than bespoke or tailored outfits) is vastly different for men and women.

Men's ready-to-wear clothing can be traced back to the bloody war fields of nineteenth century America. The rise of mass manufacturing during the industrial revolution finally solved the military's problem of the need to clothe thousands of men of different physical statures as quickly and as cheaply as possible. The ability to base clothing on a series of 'average' male body types was exploited by manufacturers and quickly adapted for the commercial civilian market.

Women, however, stayed loyal to making their own clothes or (for the wealthier) buying custom made until the 1920s and 30s when a change in economic and social trends saw an explosion in chain stores and mail order services.

Unfortunately for manufacturers, the boom in mail order sales was met with a tidal wave of returns as women found it hard to know what size to order for themselves. The system used for men (creating a series of average body types using chest measurements as a reference point) did not produce as accurate a result when transferred to women's figures.

Using bust measurements as a basis for sizing seemed logical on the surface, but was utterly flawed in practice. Due to the economic impact of wasted produce, the US government commissioned a national survey of women's body measurements to try and address the issue. This attempt at standardising sizes was noble, but ultimately doomed. Instead, sizing terms continued to develop according to the preferences and logic (or otherwise) of the manufacturers.

A familiar pattern

Today we see increasing numbers of shoppers purchasing online. Whether for reasons of convenience, cheaper prices or simply the wish to avoid the teeming masses on the high street, our equivalent to the mail order industry of the early twentieth century is booming.

As any shopper knows, sizing across labels gives only the faintest of hints of what size to expect. For example, a size 16 for women can vary by as much as 8cm in measurement between brands. Similarly, a woman needing a size 6 in Banana Republic may wear a size 10 in Topshop. With over a century of disparity between brands and their sizing terminology, a standardised sizing system is as distant a pipe dream now as it ever was.

The inability to try clothes on when buying online is, just as it was for our catalogue using predecessors in the 1930s, causing huge problems. A survey by IMRG found that up to 23% of clothing bought online is returned. A phenomenal financial cost for the retail industry and a major barrier to wider public confidence in the platform.

While we may be no closer to uniform sizing now than 80 years ago, we now have the technology and data to all but eliminate the issue of ill-fitting clothing orders.

Cutting the cloth right first time

As for many problems in the modern world, data can be a major trump card to play in the battle. The ability for retailers to use a customer's previous purchases and records of personal physical data to help ensure correct sizes are ordered can be a massive help. Some retailers now warn a customer if they have selected an item in a different size to a previous purchase; flagging an order for a 'large', for instance, if a 'medium' was previously bought.

Virtual fitting solutions are also increasingly playing a role in making sure the cut of the cloth meets a customer's fit preference. From 2D illustrated garment-to-garment comparisons (directly cross referencing the measurement of a favourite dress owned by a customer to one they wish to buy) to 3D computer body modeling, the tools are now there to make online shopping a more reassuring journey for the wary shopper.

By improving the online shopping through allowing customers to 'virtually' try on clothes before they buy, retailers may convince many shoppers to bypass the hassle of physical fittings rooms entirely.


The perfect fit

The way we shop is evolving and maturing. Increased globalisation, combined with ever-rising smartphone and digital penetration, mean it is more important than ever for retailers to enable informed purchasing of their products to the 'point and click' shopping base. The market is too tempting in size to ignore.

In contrast to the 1930s, the technology, data and means are now there to prevent the returns that previously plagued the industry blighting its 21st century equivalent.

Unlike flares, the concept of ordering an item that doesn't fit is something that should genuinely be consigned to fashion's dustbin.

Why It's High Time That Beauty Means More Than What You Look Like

June 8, 2014, 3:56 pm

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Dozens of women flocked to Selfridges last Friday evening yet they weren't their for shopping, pampering or a post work cocktail. ‎It was to discuss a very sensitive subject for many, one that we often avoid speaking about even with our closest friends.

Behind closed doors a panel of four brave women opened their hearts up to talk about beauty and self-esteem. Each of them having had first hand experience of bullying, self-doubt and low body confidence, partly as a consequence of social media like Facebook and Twitter.

I was one of them, offering the point of view of a HuffPo blogger and now author of The Ugly Little Girl trilogy. Rebecca Adlington was the highlight inspiring everyone with her story about being trolled, how she ‎is still called ugly today yet she won't give up her Twitter account - for every bully there is a young swimmer who she can help and mentor.

The debate was in title about social networks but what became clear was that there is a bigger problem. Women have had enough of being judged by their looks, of being objectified, of feeling they are too fat, ugly, not enough, and are clamouring for more.

From a very young age little girls are told they are cute ‎or pretty yet boys are lauded for being strong or smart. Selfies, airbrushing and 'model' culture are exacerbating this and networks are spreading this narcissistic virus like wildfire.

The flip side is that if you don't look good you can be ‎criticised mercilessly for it. There's even a new phenomenon called backstalking where friends will dig out less appealing photos from your archives and republish them. The cancer no make up selfie was a step in the right direction of being true to you, yet it is a sad testament to our image obsessed society that the idea of no make up is such a massive achievement.

For it is so much easier to get away with being nasty online as you can't look someone in the eye. My goddaughter, a normally sweet girl published a jokey video of her and her best friend announcing who was gorgeous or not at school. When I advised her to take it down she hadn't realised how hurtful it was and how it might be seen by parents and teachers. For her it was a fun prank in her bedroom, for others it was public humiliation.

But bullying has always existed. I suffered terribly being called 'geek' 'metal mouth' and 'four eyes'. A mean message chalked on the blackboard was the equivalent of a facebook status but at least I could escape the bullies once I got home. Now cyberbullying invades your bedroom, your privacy so there is no safe place any more.

Self-esteem and 'beauty' are intrinsically interconnected for if beauty became more about our skills, our traits we could actually begin to believe in ourselves. The recent Aussie photographer who became a body builder to feel good about herself is a case in point. Being slim, with the perfect figure did nothing to create resilience, she still felt rubbish. A psychologist Seligman claims that there are 7 natural abilities that form proper confidence, such as developing creativity, unlocking bravery or practising mindfulness. Each of these creates pillars within our pysche and lead to real hobbies and vocations. He also claims that celebrating 3 good things that happen at the end of every day makes you feel happier in yourself over time. It only takes 21 days to change behaviour and transition from niggly self critique to fulfilment. Social media can paradoxicallu really help with this, the recent #100 happy days is a way of making sure status updates are positive rather than wingey, whether it's posting a bacon sandwich or a cloudless sky.

‎But the general consensus amongst everyone was that more needs to be done to change the conversation. Magazines are still all photoshopping, fashion is sold via young, skinny models and beauty products are about perfection or covering up flaws. Girl Talk magazine, for pre teens, is a lone voice leading the way with its editorial theme of 'amazing girls'. Yes there are popstars and sparkly nailpolish, but there are also real heroines, women famous for sport, science or writing books. Each issue reminds the girls of the selfesteem mantra, to stand up for others, to love themselves as they are and to believe boys are equal to girls. They have been followed by a wave of new toys that defy stereotypes. For instance there are new dolls on the market that are normal looking, as the Barbie proportions have been proven physically impossible on a human. Or Lego has just created its first female scientist (even though the girls lego is still classically pink and has kits for making catwalks). The Girl Guides has also followed suit, recently launching a free to me badge, that makes self-esteem a tangible goal and makes body talk unacceptable. I hope my book is part of this BeYoutiful revolution, as it's told from the perspective of a young girl who doesn't like herself very much and one night she discovers a magic night school Oddbods for children that feel different - red heads, beanpoles, shorties, geeks and loners. Like the women in the Dove beauty sketches ad she realises she is lovelier than she thinks she is, in every way.

The change also needs to happen a lot closer to home. So much of women's conversations are filled with fat talking and 'poisoned' complements, 'you've lost weight' eg you were fat before, 'you look nice today' as if you didn't the other day. We also spread self-loathing to our children without even realising it. Little girls are quick to imitate mummies jumping on and off scales or asking if their bum looks big in this. We all need to commit to posting new types of material online, that reflect who we are, a #nopose #nopout #nofilter selfesteemie, a genuine toothy smile, something we have made cooked or created, a view, a sunset, a gateway to our soul.

75 percent of girls dislike themselves, 6 withdraw from activities like ballet or swimming because they feel embarrassed, 4 out of 5 ten year olds are worried about getting fat‎ and half of women are avoiding beach holidays. This situation has always existed but we are more aware of it now so there is no excuse for inaction.

Women have fought to obtain equal status as men, yet there is one last mountain to climb, the one that allows us to be exactly what we want, without judgement or critique. We are so much more than waxing and manicures, heels and straightened hair yet so much of our time and energy are spent on that. Or there is the opposite extreme of businesswomen who feel they have to toughen up like men to do well. All of it is covering up who we are, as if we have to wear some kind of mask to be accepted.

The actual definition of beautiful is a quality that delights, or satisfies, something extraordinary. Interestingly the origin is from the Greek, 'being of ones hour', like a perfectly ripe fruit. It meant being full of brilliance. In ancient times a woman who tried to appear younger or older was not considered beautiful.

We have come to directly associate beauty with appearance over time, so that now no one would use the word to praise somebody's personality. Maybe that is the starting point, each of us this week need to use the word when talking about something non physical. We need to reclaim the word, something marvellous, amazing, outstanding.

We need to close our eyes and see the beauty. ‎

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Top Tips for Holiday Packing

June 9, 2014, 8:03 am

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Packing. Right up there with putting petrol in the car and reading contracts, it's one of the things I hate (I'm a top line not detail person). As much as I love travelling, I much prefer to get dressed at home with absolutely everything to hand so I have a full range of outfit options, 90% of which just lays around being admired and gathering dust, but like most fashionistas....it's just nice to know it's there. Now that Summer is upon us though so are a multitude of trips to the sun (it always strikes me as crazy that the minute the sun shines on London we're all desperado to leave) and a well packed bag is essential.

Time to escape - from my recent trip to LA

I am a last minute packer, I can't pack until I am showered, dressed and fully made up and ready to go to the airport, otherwise I'm sure I'll forget something by interfering with my routine. I have learnt this through trial and error. I once sat on a plane to New York and suddenly realised I'd forgotten my hair dryer, and after five minutes of panic calmed down, telling myself that if that was the only omission for a week in the Big Apple then it was no hardship, only to open my suitcase at the hotel in Manhattan to discover it chock full of photographs not clothes - on the way out the door I had picked up the wrong suitcase and ended up with the one that I use for excess photograph storage. And just recently, on a flight to LA, I looked down at my jumper and noticed it was on inside out. Quelle horreur! And while I sat there wondering if anyone had noticed it suddenly struck me that I hadn't packed any underwear.

But aside from packing underwear, which is of course absolutely essential (for me), let's focus on the fun stuff. Here are the pieces I pick for my ultimate sunshine getaway:

Handbags:
I would never take a handbag that I use in the city to the sun. You'll never use it and I think it feels weird to have something relatively formal near the beach. I travel with a shopper into which I cram the essentials and things I wouldn't trust checking in with my luggage

My current shopper is by Saint Laurent. Bobby Dazzler bought it for me last birthday and presented it to me before a trip to Barbados. The grey is perfect and goes with anything, plus it's reversible! Since I almost immediately spilt something in it, it stays permanently leather side out. Into which I pack:

- Apple MacBook Pro

- Apple iPad

- Kindle (I am an obsessive reader, I always have to have something on the go)

- Smythson travel jewellery box

- Personalised Smythson travel wallet

- Minnie Rose Ruffle Shawl. I don't get on a plane without one, even when I'm flying into the sun. Snuggle up to it on the flight and it's also a great emergency cover up for chilly evenings.

I also pack at least two clutch bags for the day or evening - all I really need on holiday is a credit card, room key, iPhone, and lipgloss so a clutch is perfect.

The perfect holiday clutch

Shoes:
This is where flats come into my life! I prefer sky high or flat as a pancake, for me there is no in-between in the shoe world. I always pack a pair of ballet flats, a pair or two of flat sandals for the beach and a pair or two of wedges for lunches or casual evenings out. And then I take one much dressier pair of heels that will save any outfit, like Manolo Blahnik's Chaos Sandal. And of course, a fresh pair of Havaiianas has to be thrown into the mix.

The higher the better

Swimwear:
At this time of year there has to be a little swimming wherever you go so I throw in at least two bikinis. I love Melissa Odabash, she is a friend of mine but she is also THE best bikini designer on the market! I like simple triangle bikinis but I also pack a bandeau bikini too so I don't develop deep tan lines around the strap marks. A couple of Melissa's cover ups are also essential and take up hardly any room at all.

The best cover up

Day Time Basics:
As I often don't know what life will throw at me while travelling I like to put a few things in that can be dressed up or down and get me through a few occasions.

- Jeans are a must, I always take a skinny and a boyfriend pair with me.
- A good jacket that is casual enough for day but can also be dressed up by throwing over the shoulders at night in case you have an unexpected dressier dinner to go to.
- Two or three t-shirts with a cool graphic print on the front that will take you to any party, or a bar or even dinner.

Boyfriend jeans and top from La Prestic Ouiston

Jewellery:
Jewellery is key for travelling but over the years I have learned not to take too much as a) it gets stressful keeping track of it all and b) when I am out of my normal routine I fear that I will lose things. So I go light on the jewels! Gold is essential for me and I love laying on a lot of great heavy pieces. For travelling though just pack two to three statement pieces which will finish off any outfit. My current crush is my YSL cuff and my Rosa De La Cruz smily face pendant. Throw in two or three pairs of earrings, ones that can make a statement in the evening or a simpler style to make your look that little bit more special during the day.


YSL cuff and Rosa De La Cruz rings

The Shoe Tattoo

June 9, 2014, 8:03 am

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I've sometimes toyed with the idea of getting a tattoo, but there's something about the permanency and probably the pain that stops me entering through those parlour doors. However, I recently came across Oliver Sweeney offering the option of getting a tattoo on their shoes, and this instantly seemed like a much more painless option.




I went to meet with their Tattooist-in-Chief, Sarah, at the Oliver Sweeney store on King Street. As I approached the location I could hear the buzzing of the needle, as though it was the real deal, and was glad it wasn't my body about to get an inking. She explained that the ink and needle is the exact same kind they use on skin, with the only difference being that on a person the ink has to go through three layers of skin and on a shoe it's only one.



Sarah has traveled the world with Oliver Sweeney, so has dealt with a great number of varied requests from city skylines to donkeys. For my pair of shoes I wanted something that represented me, and that's completely possible thanks to this great tattooing feature. I absolutely love architecture and since being in London, the Houses of Parliament has always been the epitome of icons in the city. Having Edinburgh as my hometown, I also wanted that to be represented, and nothing defines the city better than the majestic Edinburgh Castle.



I thought to incorporate my signature, as it has always been something that has followed me and my career. Equally if I was to go under the needle myself, I always thought that the signature would be what I would opt for. Similar to how Andy in Toy Story wanted to write his name on Woody's boot, I wanted to tag these one-of-a-kind shoes. Sarah came up with the idea of simply signing the front left shoe, so it's like a final sign-off on the work.



The final result looks excellent, and a great collaboration in styles from the beautifully crafted Oliver Sweeney shoes, through to Sarah's tattoo interpretation of my vision. Best of all, it was the completely pain-free tattoo I had always dreamt of. I now wear them with pride, safe in the knowledge that I wont see another pair of my 'Signature Richard' shoes on the streets.

To find out more about Oliver Sweeney tattoos, see their website here.

Father's Day Gift Guide

June 9, 2014, 9:31 am

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Even guys seem to find their fathers difficult to buy gifts for so, as it's Father's Day this Sunday, it really is time to get your thinking caps on.

If giving presents isn't your thing, you could take your Dad out for a drink or make him dinner, spend time with him by taking him out to the cinema or round of golf - just giving up that extra bit of your time will hopefully make for some great memories for both of you.

My brothers and I always club together to get our dad one great present rather than three smaller ones but, however you split it, if you want to avoid the usual socks or Amazon vouchers, here's a few suggestions to help you along.

And don't forget the handmade card - no matter how old or art-intolerant you are, the sentiment and effort will be much appreciated.


1 Red5, Click Clock Walnut, £44.95, from www.red5.co.uk; 2 Polo Ralph Lauren, Saddle Leather Belt, £45, from Harrods.com;3 Lanvin, New Alber Velvet and Silk Bow Tie, £80, from MrPorter.com; 4 Mulberry, leather iPhone cover, £80 from www.selfridges.com; 5 Oliver Spencer, Brown Contrast-Buckle Leather Belt, £95 from MrPorter.com; 6 M&S Harris Tweed laptop case, £45, and 7, Harris Tweed wallet, £15, both from www.marksandspencer.com; 8 Paul Smith, Camouflage-Print Leather Billfold Wallet, £140, from MrPorter.com; 9 Hotel Chocolat, 'For My Dad' chocolate pocket selection, £9 from www.hotelchocolat.com; 10 Tom Dixon, Tool the Bookworm Pen bookmark, £12, from Selfridges; 11 Anderson's, Leather-Trimmed Elasticated Woven Belt, £65, from MrPorter.com; 12 Home Candy, personalised map wallet, £115 from www.homecandy.com; 13 Lagerfeld iPad cover, £175, from the Karl Lagerfeld London store, 145-147 Regent Street, London W1B 4JB (Tel 020 7439 8454); 14 Ted Baker, Brogue Notebook, £18, from Selfridges.com 15 Bicycle Multi Tool, £6.95 from www.dotcomgiftshop.com; 16 Wild & Wolf, Gentleman's Hardware 13" laptop sleeve, £40 from Selfridges.


1 & 10Star Wars x Vans Classics shoes (1 is available in kids' sizes too), £52 each from www.vans.co.uk and various Vans stockists; 2 Vinderalls bottle cover, £13.99 from The Gift Oasis; 3 The Savoy, The Manhattan, £225 exclusively from Selfridges; 4 Georg Jensen, Alfredo Carafe, £40, from www.georgjensen.com/uk; 5 Aviation, Dry Gin Gift Pack with stainless steel cocktail shaker, measure and cocktail recipe book, £41.99 from Selfridges.com; 6 Mississippi Barbecue Sauce, Original Barbecue Sauce, £3.99, 7 Fauchon, Mini French Mustard gift set, £9.99, and 8 Exclusive Coca-Cola and Coke Zero limited edition Father's Day bottles, £1.99 each, all available from Selfridges; 9 Classic Gentleman's Wine Drinking Bar Set, £16.95, dotcomgiftshop.


1 Banana Republic, Original Fit Printed Shorts, £45 from www.bananarepublic.co.uk; 2 FitBit, Flex wireless activity & sleep wristband, £79.99, and 3 B&O Play, Form 2i Ultra-Light On-Ear headphones, £109.99, 4 Moleskine, 10" laptop case, £39, all from Selfridges; 5 Woven-cord and Metal Hook Wrap Bracelet, £70, and 6 Leather and Metal Hook Wrap Bracelet, £60, both by Miansai from MrPorter.com; 7 Oakley Caveat Sunglasses, £130, from various Oakley stockists; 8 Miansai, PVD-Coated Metal Cuff, £190, and 9 APC, holdall bag, £150, both from MrPorter.com; 10 Lotus Grill barbecue, available in two sizes priced £129/£199, from cuckooland.com; 11 Alexander McQueen, Embossed Leather Billfold Wallet, £160, from MrPorter.com; 12 Sony, Splash-proof Portable Speakers with Bluetooth & NFC, £119.99 from Selfridges.com; 13 Goodhood, 'Bad Dad' (Bad as in Good) Mug, £12, from GoodhoodStore.com; 14 London Undercover, Bamboo-handled Collapsible Umbrella, £60, from MrPorter.com; 15 Zee, hose reel, available in 10m or 30m for £125 or £230 respectively, from cuckooland.com; 16 Craft Design Technology, CDT Scissors, £55, from The Goodhood Store; 17 Tusting, Excursion Waxed Canvas Washbag with Leather Trim in Lichen, £99, (can be monogrammed for an additional fee) from www.tusting.co.uk


1 Ron Dorff, Skin Discipline shampoo, £18, 2 Triumph & Disaster, Ritual face cleanser, £18, and 3 Ron Dorff, Skin Discipline body wash, £18, all exclusively from Selfridges; 4 Karl Lagerfeld for Men eau de toilette from £33, from Harrods; 5 Yohi Homme eau de toilette, from £35 from Selfridges; 6 Aesop, The Athlete grooming kit, £80 from MrPorter.com; 7 Exclusive Triumph & Disaster, Gameface moisturiser tube, £34, and 8 Comme des Garcons, Amazing Green eau de parfum natural spray, £57, both from Selfridges; 9 Czech & Speake, Number 88 Shaving Soap Refill, £21 from MrPorter.com; 10 Cowshed, Neville Shaving Brush & Stand, £105 from Harrods.com; 11 Giorgio Armani, Attitude Extreme eau de toilette, £59, and 12Exclusive Bella Bellissima, Perfect Man cologne intense, £48, both from Selfridges; 13 Baxter of California, Skin 1-2-3 Kit, £45, and 14 Malin + Goetz, Essentials Travel Kit, £20, both from MrPorter.com; 15 Malin + Goetz, Dark Rum scented candle, £37 from Net-a-Porter.com

Hats Off the the Racing Season - Millinery in the UK

June 10, 2014, 1:27 am

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To curate an exhibition of headwear is to capture moments in millinery history. The United Kingdom, with its formal dress occasions and historical class system, has a long and intriguing relationship with hats and headwear. From the top hat to the boater, and the cocktail-hat to the pillbox, these iconic shapes are all explored in Hats off to Racing at 34 restaurant, Mayfair, London which runs until July 20th 2014.

The exhibition coincides with one of the most exclusive and historic race meetings, Royal Ascot. Hugely popular, the event attracts 300,000 visitors across the 5-day event but is not without its sartorial rules and formal dress code for the Royal enclosure. For men, it is full mourning suits (with waistcoat and tie) in black or grey with black shoes and, of course, a top hat. According to London hatters, Lock & Co, founded in 1676, black is the most popular choice. Headwear is obligatory for the ladies as well and strict rules apply to their choices too. If a full hat is not worn, the base must be at least 4 inches in diameter and fascinators are no longer permitted.

The focus in 'Hats off to Racing' is to use Ascot as the jumping point from which to highlight iconic designs and showcase both the craft and innovation of contemporary milliners, sculptors and hatters. In this exhibition, the traditional top hat has been reinvented by David Shilling, who himself is a regular attendee of Ascot. While his sequin, cherry dripping topper would definitely not be allowed into the Royal Enclosure, it perfectly embodies his whacky aesthetic which marked him out as one of Britain's most eccentric and unrestrained designers in recent history. Shilling is untrained and started making hats for his mother Gertrude's annual appearances at Ascot. She loved the theatricality of fashion and attended Ascot a staggering 34 times becoming known as the ascot mascot, both for this, and her increasingly boundary-pushing millinery, all designed by Shilling. More recently, his work has been collected by some of the world's foremost museums and has been photographed by the greats from Cecil Beaton to Mario Testino.

Another hat closely associated with British society is the boater, historically worn by a wide range of social stratas, from shipmen in the Royal Navy to schoolchildren, and is now mostly see at Henley Royal Regatta. Represented here by Sanguine, this selection is from Moody and Farrell's Spring Summer 2014 collection. Hand-stitched and hand-woven from wheat straw, it is resplendent with a hand-plaited brass hatpin, adorning the hat like an Elizabethan broach. In order to learn the intricate plaiting techniques, Eloise Moody underwent grueling training from a straw craftswoman in her 80s to create this ornate and exquisite hat.

1920s society was all about the cloche hat and close fitting cocktail pieces. The dainty Delille from milliner Aurora Ozma is a signature piece from the brand's aesthetic. Comprising white patent lambskin leather and Swarovski crystal detail, this handcrafted and glazed berry detailing design perfectly embodies the glamorous side of the decade. While the 1950s were synonymous with covering the head, by the 1960s the appeal of hats was beginning to wane slightly due to the rise of geometric haircuts and celebrity hairstylists, as well as a relaxing of social norms. This decade still managed to produce some of the most dynamic and enduring designs in millinery however, one of which is the pillbox hat. Most famously worn by Jackie Kennedy Onassis, this shape has been modernised for this exhibition by London-based milliner Noel Stewart, who creates architectural headwear for clients and the catwalk. His 'ferocity' veil features regularly in his collections, in different forms and fabrications. At 34, the leopard print cocktail version with its technical drape updates this classic shape and is perfect for a stylish day at the races.

While millinery is daring, elegant and fun, this exhibition also illustrates that contemporary headwear can be more than just stylish, as evidenced in its technically accomplished milliners and the innovative, boundary-pushing design-led pieces on display.

'Hats off to the Racing Season' runs at 34 restaurant, Mayfair, until 22nd July 2014. The Majesty's Plate cocktail has been created in honour of the first race held annually at Ascot on 11th August 1711 and a beautiful hat bomb desert which pays homage to jockeys' silks and the riding hat will be available for the duration of the exhibition.

www.34-restaurant.co.uk

The State of the Statement: What Do Your Clothes Say About You?

June 11, 2014, 4:18 am

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Madame Allsorts

Regardless of how stylish you are, or how stylish you wish to be, the undeniable need to wear clothing is apparent. We are in the era where nudity and nature's uniform is no longer acceptable - so we are forced to cover what our mother's gave us with at least one garment or another. Even the most reluctant of fashion victims use clothing to tell the world what they should think of them. A suitable suit, a screw you tracksuit, or a proud-of-the-booty bodycon; the state of the statement, however subtle, is usually noted by the world that surrounds us.

So what does fashion mean to you? And ultimately, what does style mean to me? As I began to put together my next clothing collection the answer to this question became more crystal clear than ever. Ultimately, I am still the little girl who wore fluorescent yellow cycling shorts and neon sunblock to her eighth birthday party; the girl who was head banging off the walls of the bouncy castle as the other girls watched in horror, scared to spoil their best party dresses. Even as an eight year old girl, I was swamped by an internal feeling that being the prettiest, best-put-together girl at the party didn't necessarily make for a more interesting life, or for a better time. Life without teasing the state of a statement seemed like selling myself short; I had so much to say, so why stop at what I was wearing?



Madame Allsorts

Performing has always given me a stage to make a statement, but in life there isn't always a stage, and undeniably, there isn't always a performance. Which takes me back to the relevance of appearance, as sometimes it's all a stranger has to judge you on.

Revolting as it may sound, how you look is generally noted by the civilians that surround you. Are you comfortably ugly? Or reaching for the nearest pack of bin bags hoping to drown in an endless sack of black? (No offence black, I fucking love you!) If you screamed, "Yes!" to the ugly question, then it probably means that you don't fit what you feel society deems as attractive, which in my opinion, makes you far from ugly!



Madame Allsorts

Clothing can talk where words sometimes fail; it can camouflage us when we don't want to be seen, or excel us when we need to be noticed. I create clothes to wear on stage. I often spew my internal thoughts into a fabric print, just so I can cover myself in it! As long as clothing is mandatory, I am going to make sure my style is personal, and I am going to make sure I am saying something with a little more depth than, "Look at my ass", regardless of who's interpreting it! Punch me if this is patronising, but I really want to encourage more people to find their own personal style instead of just following the fashion set to commercial gratification.



Madame Allsorts

I recently took these photos in the spirit of "Breaking the Mannequin". The thought process was to try and dispel other's ideals of beauty and how we should look, and celebrate our own personal style and physical attributes. Style kudos comes too easy within the mainstream fashion industry. There seems to be a warped appreciation society; chapping everyone who is wearing the same "on trend" garment! Clap, clap, congratulations; you're a bloody clone. Now march inline and munch hungrily on your slice of cool!

www.madameallsorts.com

Top Tips For Your Summer Holiday Beauty Look

June 13, 2014, 4:57 am

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Many people struggle with their Summer holiday beauty look. When you are lying by the pool, on or the beach in the sun, you want to feel comfortable and look flawless.

Summer make-up is all about using as little product as possible to enhance your features and create that flawless appearance. You don't want to be sweating and feel bogged down with cosmetics, or feel them melting on your face.



First of all, it's vital that you use an SPF on your face as well as your body. Traditional sun creams are greasy and don't make a good base for make-up; so investing in a facial skincare SPF lotion is a good idea. I love the Epionce Ultra Shield SPF 50 Lotion (£40.50 from Epionce).



Once your skin is protected from the sun, a great lightweight (but excellent coverage) way to hide dark circles and cover blemishes is YSL's famous Touche Eclat highlighting concealer (£21.16 from Click Fragrance). This is easy to blend, and you'll not feel like you are wearing anything at all. Finish off with a dusting of your favourite bronzer (try the Urban Decay Naked Flushed palettes at £22 from Debenhams), and your skin is good to go.

If you want to add some colour to your cheeks, choose something that has a creamy finish rather than a powder. This will look like more of a natural flush in the sun. I love Benefit's new Benebalm (a tinted lip balm take on their top-selling Benetint liquid). This is a multi-tasking product- use it on your cheeks for a dewy pop of colour, and on your lips to enhance their shade and keep them moisturised. It's £14.50 from House of Fraser.

I wouldn't recommend heavy eye make-up or mascara in the heat. We also tend to touch or rub our eyes more in the sun too. Just go for a bright and bold beach-themed swipe of colour across your lids. Urban Decay's Flipside (£6.76 from Click Fragrance) is a perfect sea blue-green.

Finally, tame and fill your brows for a groomed finish. Benefit's new Gimme Brow (£17.50 from House of Fraser) contains fibres that will fill out your own brow arch to make a real statement.

Photo Credits: pasukaru76cc, Laura Pearson-Smith.

These 20 Incredible Prom Dresses And Tuxedos Are Made Entirely From Duct Tape

June 17, 2014, 2:53 am

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We've seen wedding dresses made out of bog roll and suits fashioned out of newspaper but this takes the Oscar for the most outstanding, crafty outfits of the year.

US brand Duck Tape run a 'Stuck At Prom' competition every year, when they invite high schoolers to make their outfits out of duct tape.

Photos are posted online and once 10 finalists are chosen, readers are asked to vote.

Winners scoop $10,000, second place $5,000 and third place $3,000 - and the schools are also awarded a cash prize. For those that don't win any of the top prizes, there are honourable mentions for accessories including best tie, purse and prop.

Take a look at our favourite 20 - we still can't believe they are made out of tape...

SEE ALSO:

Mimoza Haska Wins Toilet Paper Wedding Dress Contest 2013

Bride Sews Baby To Wedding Dress Train, Drags Her Down The Aisle

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The Launch of a Graduate Fashion Brand Unum Nulla

June 17, 2014, 7:45 am

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Marketing is both the holy grail and a nightmare of corporations and young designers alike, but especially the latter. Marketing puzzles most creative minds as an inconvenient afterthought, after the masterpiece has been produced and exhibited and much after the encouraging lights of the graduation shows have gone out.

Marketing was the one question which remained unanswered for me upon graduating with an MA from CSM in London: what is the business reality of the creative industries and how does one apply all the great ideas to the material world. Speaking to the many other graduates from top London colleges and attending their designer shows over the years have proved the same point: many great ideas never make it through because their creators have no grasp of reality outside of the university walls and no commercial acumen.

This is why, when Julia Mogilevskaya, a Fashion Communication student at the British Higher School of Art and Design in Moscow, reached out about her project, I felt compelled to listen with interest.

Julia's final year project, along with the other members of the team, is to promote a fellow graduating designer from her university, but with a condition: everything has to be as it is in the real world. The assessment will appraise every element from a PR strategy to showroom sales, the runway, the bloggers, the style shoots. Their task is to launch Unum Nulla, a young trendy brand by Mariana Sbitneva and shake up the blaze Moscow crowd.

A hard task, Julia tells me, "In Moscow, magazines won't write anything unless they are offered money and the first question people ask when they get a fashion show invitation is: 'what gifts will I get." With such a dispassionate reality and materialistic approach, launching a new designer in Russia comes down to unmeasurable quantities of personal charisma, boundless drive and hundreds of phone calls, in all of which Julia and her team seem to have excelled, judging by the fact that showroom has been found, bloggers are typing their reviews, the stylist is creating his vision of Unum Nulla and runway is being prepared.



Beyond the traditional marketing, it's great to see Julia and her team exploring opportunities in the latest technologies: "We have also managed to strike a deal with a virtual fitting room Suitup.ru, a startup from our university, which has been a real success. The startup offers a platform for designers to sell their creations and buyers get a chance to virtually try the outfits before they buy. Such great technology is fantastic for retail and we have been lucky to get Unum Nulla to be represented there".


Not many graduating designers can boast a team of bright marketing minds spending days and nights on strategising and executing a plan of promotional activity, but seems like Unum Nulla got the lucky ticket. Such a practical approach to structuring a fashion course is very progressive and certainly a great way for students to get a grasp of reality and Julia is extremely complimentary of her teachers and the University in general. "We have great teachers, most of whom are practicing fashion journalists, PR directors, who know the industry and take us to the shows, ask us to watch the real thing. The hands on element is a great asset."

However practice and reality are still the domain of fashion communication, while the fashion design course is far removed from instilling practicality: "Designers have no idea of the prices, or production costs or creating scalable products. They are focused on producing the graduation show as the pinnacle of the course, I think there should be an even closer integration between courses so that we can all benefit from exchanging ideas early and bringing in the cost of real life production into designer's plans" comments Julia.

For Julia this is her first experience and she cannot get enough, but for other few on the course, who have already worked in the industry, it was a disgruntling task to promote someone for free. Eventually the common goal and nearing assessment prevailed and Unum Nulla got the full support it needed.



Next year Julia is aiming to try London as Russian fashion industry has shown to be a too materialistic and undeveloped affair. "This year as a fashion communication student, has opened many perspectives for me, event management being one of them. Brainstorming and planning events for PUMA, Ulyana Sergeenko, has really lit a spark in me. I want to explore event management further".

The practical direction of the British Higher School of Art and Design is impressive to watch in action and one can only hope to see more integration between ideas, numbers and words in Universities across the board. For now let's wish UNUM NULLA, which channels the timeless energy of nature into the smart casual lifestyle of trendy urban ladies, best of everything that fashion can offer.

Brazilian Style Icon- Carmen Miranda 1909-1955

June 18, 2014, 5:54 am

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The world cup has kicked off in Brazil, so no doubt fashion this summer will pull some influences from the flamboyant Brazilians. The biggest style icon to ever come out of Brazil is indisputably the singer and actress Carmen Miranda. There is no star in history that has ever had a stronger signature style of colour, frivolity and fun.

In the 1939 film Banana-da-Terra, Carmen first wore what would become her trademark costume of glittering fruit turban and flowing skirts. It was inspired by the Baiana, the poor women of the State of Bahia in Brazil who would carry fruit and the food they made on their heads. The class was generally looked down upon but Carmen Miranda thought they were beautiful and was fascinated by them and created a glamourised version of their costume.

As World War Two approached, there was a need in America to feel that their side of the Atlantic was a large family and a calculating Broadway impresssario Lee Shubert offered Carmen Miranda, a big samba star in Brazil, a contract to perform in New York. She went on to star in many Hollywood musicals and became so popular that emulations of her exotic jewellery, shoes and hats were being marketed all over the world. She made such an impact that people said she outdid French designers such as Chanel and Dior.

As a "showgirl" myself I really admire her as a brilliant performer have taken inspiration from her when costuming myself. I have a Brazilian sibling have visited several parts of the country including Manaus and Aracaju and love the nature, music and party spirit! I have a 4-foot portrait of her in my living room and coming down the stairs every morning to her gigantic grin, I can't help but be joyful. She is a symbol of happiness.



How to add a Touch of Carmen Miranda to Your Outfit-

-The Carmen Miranda Silhouette.
You can look for garments that have Spanish frills on them. They appeared a lot on her skirts and ruffled up at her shoulders. A Spanish Frill is created by taking a circle of fabric and cutting it in a spiral, when you open it out into a line this creates a Spanish frill. Carmen often had her midriff showing or panels cut out to show a part of it. Her tops were often off the shoulder and many of her full-length skirts had a long split up the left side.

-Wear Large Bangles and Lots of Them.
She hand her wrists laden with bangles of different thicknesses and textures. If you are bored with the bangles you have you can paint them with acrylic or wrap satin ribbon around them. Another favourite idea of mine is to stick Swarovski rhinestones on them in imaginative patterns.

-Make a Turban out of Scarves and add Features.
One way to make a Carmen Miranda turban is to take a headscarf or some fabric of that size and place it over your head from the bottom of your neck upwards, so that you have a bunch of Fabric at the top of your head like a high ponytail. You can then put a hair-band around this as if making a ponytail and arrange the fabric in a splayed manner in the shape of tropical foliage. You can leave it as so or add a glittering brooch to the front and/or fake/real flowers and/or fake fruit. Netting and tassels is another thing she wore in her hair. Be Creative, she wore a mini lighthouse statue on her head once it was such fun. OTT did not exist in Carmen Miranda vocabulary.

-Make some Shoe Clips.
Carmen famously wore 20cm high, wedged heels to add to her height being only 4ft 9. The toe and sometimes the top of the heel was ornamented with small fruits, jewels, tassels or pom-poms. You can make removable shoe clips with these on by taking two child's badges or circles of leather and covering with a base fabric. Then stitch or glue on your decorations. Why not make a larger corsage for your dress to match.

-Wear a Huge Smile Cemented to Your Face and Move Your Eyebrows a lot When Talking.
She had the most expressive visage almost like a cartoon. It certainly makes it impossible to look away from her when watching her on film so it may work wonders for you when you are out and about.

Muito Muito Bonita!!!

In the second half of 2014, the new headquarters for the Cármen Miranda Museum will be opened at Rio de Janeiro's new Museum of Image and Sound (MIS). Be sure to visit.


www.facebook.com/millicent.binks

See inside Vogue Paris June/July 2014

June 18, 2014, 5:56 am

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By Kate Matthams-Spencer

See inside Vogue Paris June/July 2014, on newsstands now around the world and online.



"The water is calm and clear, the bodies laid out on the sand sparkle with seaspray. Sun-drenched fantasy? No, it's the summertime. Our special issue brings a completely new approach to savoring the sunny coda that we long for all year", writes Emmanuelle Alt, Vogue Paris editor-in-chief, in her June/July 2014 editorial. With her enviable figure poured into a red bikini, cover girl Natasha Poly raises the temperature for Inez & Vinoodh, as a water babe to rival Romy Schneider in La Piscine. Get your own body beach-ready with the Vogue Paris approach to toning up for Summer, as with a little help from technology, model advice, meditation and sport we go back to basics to keep body and mind in top form. Reach for the red and white looks that are set to turn heads poolside under the Summer sun and when you're ready for a little light refreshment, turn to the cocktail colors of our fine jewelry treasures and pre-Fall/Winter 2014-2015 round-up. Shade-seekers should head to the upcoming Jeff Koons exhibition, or one of many insider addresses from fashion stars including Lou Doillon, Milla Jovovich, Karlie Kloss and Mario Testino. Vacation time is just around the corner.

Subscribe to Vogue Paris n°948, out now, or download the digital edition to your iPhone and your iPad.

The Beauty of the White Shirt (The Best Representation of Life)

June 19, 2014, 3:26 am

≫ Next: Dear 90s: Your Fashion Was 'Meh'.

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Who doesn't own a white shirt? Smart or casual, a white shirt always does the trick. And that goes for women as well as men. It was the white shirt that gave me a weird epiphany on the way home today. Sitting opposite me was a girl, in a white blouse and black jeans. Fairly plain yes. But her shirt was all creased around the edges; a hard day pounding London's pavements had nonetheless given it a good wearing. The more I looked at it, the more it made sense (if that makes sense... ) The white shirt offers the best representation of life.

In its smartest form, a shirt is ironed and crisp around the collar. It hold itself well. It looks good on a hanger. And in the instance where this might be worn, the wearer would have every intention of giving a good impression. Much like the shirt. But this one on the tube was, well, shabby. The creases were unanimous; the fabric was worn and tired. It had been pulled sideways, upwards and every way in between. It resembled 'I've had enough, I don't care anymore'. It had writhed in pain, much like someone who's been hurt by love or friendship and has given up trying. We've all been there. And somehow this sad, creased shirt summed up that aching, worthless feeling rather aptly.

More so, anybody that wears a white shirt on a daily basis will know what a nightmare it is to keep clean. As a red wine drinker, I can testify to that. But it's true that once a shirt is marked, the stain remains forever. Yes, it might fade in the wash. But it's there under certain lights or when it gets hung out to dry. What is it with things that stick? Emotions in particular - something sinister, saddening or joyful that happened to us 10 years ago has a permanent place in our minds. It might waver or be forgotten about, but it's still there, somewhere. Ready to catapult back in to our minds at any given moment. It's always the forgotten stain (that you thought had gone away) that rears it's ugly head.

One of the main reasons I love wearing a white shirt is because of its seductive qualities. It looks good on everyone - the oversized boyfriend fit in particular. Women wear a manly white shirt and it connotes mischief. While a man wears the same shirt and it connotes charm, passion and authority. Wear it well and a shirt can transform your entire evening. No other item of clothing can do this for men and women in tandem. It's quite genius.

And lastly, the best bit about the white shirt? It's timeless. It will never let you down. Unlike a man, a job, the weather or public transport, the shirt doesn't care. It's there for you. And it will be there for you for many years to come. The hard part comes at replacing it (god forbid the creases get too bad or the stain doesn't fade). Such is life: the best things are irreplaceable. And like any great shirt, the best things can take a lifetime to find.

Dear 90s: Your Fashion Was 'Meh'.

June 19, 2014, 8:05 am

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When a decade of fashion is put on par with the Apocalypse you expect to be met with an article that is an onslaught brimming with intelligent, witty and well researched opinion. An argument that is both sharper and scarier than the four horsemen themselves.

So when Hadley Freeman, wordsmith at the end of the 'Ask Hadley' series on the Guardian, described the recent comeback of the 90s in fashion as an 'apocalypse', I was expecting to me met with exactly this. I was ready to be put in my place about the 90s hype that has been taking back over our wardrobes.

Nope.

I am not about to call a witch hunt on Freeman for her opinion. Fair enough if you do not like the 90s from a fashion perspective, as it is not a decade hailed for its ground-breaking cuts and platforms of rebellion. Nor, shall I whittle her opinion down to a characterless conclusion of "ugly", "ridiculous" or "meh" (this isn't a word, it's predominantly exhaling); as she so indignantly summed up 3 decades worth of fashion. Sorry to all you designers, photographers, seamstresses.... Thank you for your creative influence and input, but your work was 'meh'.

I was debating writing this post, considering that Freeman regards herself as 'experienced' in the field having lived through both the 80s AND 90s, so I didn't want to appear foolish coming up against such a virtuoso on the subject. I mean, I once spent 3 months of a summer instructing teenagers on how to build 'bridges' out of nothing but sticks and barrels. Having lived through this rigorous and comprehensive training, I now find it my divine right to pass my flimsy judgement onto the life's work of civil engineers and construction workers. I do it in my evenings.

Having lived through both these decades like a true war veteran, what can we learn from this 'experience' on 90s fashion? Well, it was the "worst fashion decade ever", it actually "had no fashion" and "slip dresses were kind of stupid".

Excuse me, while I wipe the sweat away from my forehead after reading those cutting and perceptive statements. The 90s was not extrovert in style and form, sure. There were fewer political statements being made and less shoulder padding. It does not mean, however, that it isn't fashion.

The early 1990s saw an economic recession, combine this with new business philosophies that were slowly taking over, realising the importance of employee welfare (enter the Google philosophy), casual attire became the face of the 1990s. The emphasis on inexpensive and casual established the shapeless form of the slip dress, the comfort of flannel shirts and the slouchy persona of dungarees. Another reason behind the rise in casual and decline in high fashion was the evolvement of ecommerce. The internet opened up a cheaper and more efficient way for inexpensive clothing manufacturers in places such as China and Mexico to get directly to consumers in the western world. Comparing this thrifty mind frame to that of the 'conspicuous consumption' of the 1980s, where people were more erratic with their spending, it makes a more mellow approach to fashion.

As for Freeman's comments on 90s fashion being 'jaded', remarking "I'm too cool to try, and that's why I'm wearing my shapeless slip dress over my bad jeans", well I raise you, Freeman. In 1993 Marc Jacobs based his spring collection on the slacker grunge that raged through the 90s, this incorporated a collection of layering; full length dresses over striped tops, cropped tops over normal tops, and full length skirts unbuttoned to reveal hot pants to help highlight the relaxed and casual nature of the collection. So (as what normally happens with fashion) this was then cottoned onto down the consumer line, hence the emergence of the dress over jeans. It might not make much sense as an ensemble, but there was some method behind the madness. It wasn't just someone getting up believing that 'they were too cool'.

Sadly for Freeman the 90s is making a bigger comeback than the Spice Girls at the moment. The catwalks of the 2014 Men's collections are brimming with it. Seeking to create 'tidier' examples of the 90s trends, Henry Holland produced lace and sheer edged dresses which referenced the 90s deeper than his usual bold look. Philip Lim gave us bare midriffs, distressed denim and tie front skirts (which gave the illusion of a flannel shirt being tied around the waist) and tough sandals that channelled doc martins. Acne designer Jonny Johansson paired sleeveless novelty tees with parachute skirts held together by utility belts, all channelling and enhancing the air of the 90s... you can almost smell the teen spirit Nirvana were singing about.

As for Freeman's proclamation "mainly what we all wore in the 90s was inexcusable crap - not fashion, not statements, just crap" then please shed some light on what you hold to be fashion? Is it because there are no flashing lights or slogans spattered all over it? Fashion is subjective, yes. It is what you make of it, and if you feel it to be crap then that is your opinion, and I respect that. However have at least a morsel of respect for the designers and creators that lined this era by entering in a little research as to why the trends were what they were, before generalising an entire decade as 'meh-ness'.

As Freeman states in her piece, as a response to Alexa Chung's opinion of the 80s being the worst decade for fashion, "youth is not the be-all and end-all". You're right, it's not. However understanding of a subject and validation of an opinion is. Now excuse me, whilst I go pick which floral dress would best suit my favourite jeans...

You can find Freeman's article here, I'd give it a meh out of meh.