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A New Story

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This blog is part of a month-long focus around sustainable fashion across HuffPost UK Style and Lifestyle. Here we aim to champion some of the emerging names in fashion and shine a light on the truth about the impact our appetite for fast fashion has around the world.

livia firth

Growing up I became fascinated with stories from an early age. I will never forget sitting on the end of my bed watching E.T. as tears fell down my face. That week I got a hold of an old camera and began what has become a lifelong obsession with using filmmaking to tell stories.

Ever since that first moment on the end of my bed, I have become increasingly convinced of this one idea. That stories shape the world. The stories we believe, just like the stories we tell start to define the world we live in today and the future we choose to create tomorrow. All throughout history stories have served to move us forward or hold us back. The real danger is in those moments when we come to believe stories that are not true.

A few years ago I began work on a film about clothing and the impact of fashion on our world (The True Cost). Up until that point I had never thought twice about anything I bought but suddenly, based on a series of tragic clothing factory disasters, I was interested to understand where my clothes came from and what kind of an effect it was having on people and places around the world.

We live in a time when clothing is more accessible, more affordable and more disposable then ever before. I, like so many of my peers have only experienced a world where clothing is something that we use and use up, where it is normal to wear and wear out clothes quicker than ever. And why not?

The story we have been told about clothing is simple. People in other parts of the world (who desperately need jobs) are working to make this clothing. Someone somewhere is taking care of these people and the most important thing we can do is to keep buying more. We really can have it all for nothing.

After spending the last few years traveling to countries all over the world to make The True Cost, I have seen first hand in unforgettable ways that the true story is far less beautiful than we have been lead to believe. The unavoidable reality is that somewhere someone always pays the price and the further we buy into cheaper disposable clothing both people and the planet suffer.

The people are farmers, garment factory workers, men and women working in dye houses and leather tanneries. People that globally account for the poorest of the working poor. And as no other part of the supply chain has gotten cheaper (transportation, raw materials etc.) human labour continues to be the element that can be forced down to artificially low levels. The result is millions of people working in dangerous conditions unable to make a living wage that supports their families in some of the world's poorest slums. The story that has been sold as a one-way ticket out of misery is in so many cases actually further entrenching systemic poverty.

As for the planet, the situation has grown equally dire. In an economic system that only measures profit, we have no metrics in place to quantify the increasing toll this industries is making. The amount of natural resources used in the creation of clothing is enormous and as our appetite for cheap throw-away fashion is growing it is unsurprisingly generating staggering amounts of waste.

This story of having it all, more and more clothing at shockingly low prices it turns out has been an incredibly costly lie. It has been a story told and sold by those who stand to profit most by selling us on the idea of faster and faster fashion.

But this is why I am so fascinated by stories. Because stories can always change.Stories change when people become aware of reality and possibility. When we open our eyes to the way things actually are and open our hearts to the possibilities of what could be. We have more access to information than ever before and now is the time to use that information to rewrite the story to include all of the hearts and hands that touch the things we wear.

Before we can see the needed transformation in this industry, before we can truly question the ill equipped economic model underneath it all, before we can account for the true cost of what we consume, we need a new story. A story that re-describes human beings as people first and foremost, not cogs in a machine. A story that recognizes the profit of some must not come at the expense of so many.

And a story that understands that we live on a planet that has very real limits, many of which we are stepping dangerously far beyond.

In a world of increasing inequality, at a time of severe planetary crisis and in a moment when we can feel overwhelmed by the challenges in front of us - I believe telling a new story about clothing is a key that could open many doors. As a crucial part of our lives, fashion weaves a thread that unites the world reminding us all of just how connected we truly are. As we begin to open our eyes and hearts to the truth that there are people behind the things we wear, let us embark on the needed task of telling a new story stepping forward.

HuffPost UK Lifestyle is running a special series around Sustainable Fashion for the month of September. Livia Firth is creative director of Eco-Age and founder of The Green Carpet Challenge, and will be guest editing on 18 September. If you'd like to blog or get involved, please email us.

#LFW4All Isn't Just About Colour and Diversity on the Catwalks - It's About Our Young Women

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Little known fact: I spent some of my childhood growing up in India.

When I returned to England I went from watching beautiful, brown voluptuous women in Bollywood like Rekha and Sri Devi onscreen to coming to a place where brown women were not seen on TV or in magazines. Well, unless you count 'Geeeetaa!' from Eastenders' Sanjay and Geeta and... I'm not.

They certainly - barring the solitary majesty of Naomi Campbell and Iman - were not to be found on the catwalks.

Then again, this was 1992. Britain's ethnic landscape was a different place. It was a time where the first and second generation of British-born immigrant children were only just starting to enter the workforce, and they tended to choose safe careers in medicine and accounting over creative ones.

So that was 1992.

But why, over 20 years on, are we still not that much better off when it comes to colour diversity on the catwalks?

naomi campbell catwalk

In my journey to write an unbiased picture of the current catwalk diversity problem and the possible solutions, I have become increasingly incensed by a) the wall of silence that surrounds the issue and b) the excuses that are offered up as an explanation for why this is the case.

Are we really to believe, in 2015, that 80% of models on the catwalk were white because there were a lack of models, or that the stylist had a different vision for the clothes?

Surely the whole point about catwalk shows which is to inspire, transcend and turn fashion into art that literally walks, is that it should not be tethered or affected by something like the colour of a person's skin?

While the glamour of the catwalks may seem a million miles from us mere plebs that walk the earth, it has a far bigger impact than the stylists, designers and casting directors can comprehend.

It's the biggest showcase of fashion (and beauty) in the world. Those pictures from New York, London, Paris and Milan are reproduced in hundreds of magazines, beamed all over the globe, and it sets the standard for style for the next six months.

If we look at the trickle down effect, this impacts what type of clothes the high street produces, how they advertise them, and that in turn affects the beauty industry, the type of skins they cater to and how broadly.

All of these cities - the big four - are thoroughly ethnically diverse. And even if they weren't, the shows use models from all over the world which I'm pretty sure isn't 80% white.

But what does it say, to all of those little girls, teenagers and young women, who aren't seeing representations of themselves at the biggest fashion events of the year?

I can only speak from experience, that it makes us feel less-than. It certainly didn't make me feel beautiful - I didn't see many representations of my kind of skin anywhere.

Whether it was cruising the beauty aisles at Boots trying to find a foundation dark enough so I wouldn't look like a mime, or searching for resonance in these tall, willowy models, and not finding any, I spent most of my teenage years feeling invisible and ugly.

It wasn't until Selfridges shipped over a load of Indian models for a special event they were having and I came across them serenely sailing down an escalator that I thought 'Wow, these women are stunning. I'm so proud to be brown."

It comes down to as simple a principal as this: if we are holding up a standard of beauty, and we don't see people who look like us reflected in that standard, it doesn't make us feel particularly beautiful.

And it's not restricted to models of colour either - we're talking about representing curvy women and all of the other minorities from women with disabilities to transgender models.

So what will effect change? You'll have to read our upcoming long form feature asking models and champions of diversity within the industry.

But for now, this London Fashion Week, we're supporting diversity by asking all of you to tweet or Instagram with the hashtag #LFW4All.

In the same way that British TV - once so painfully white with a predilection for painting any ethnic minorities into jaw-gnawingly awkward stereotypes - changed to reflect the social landscape, so too can our Fashion Weeks.

The main barrier to change is people giving excuses as to why this is and continue to hide behind them.

Because honestly, in this wonderfully diverse age, when people from all colours, sizes and orientations move more freely in the world, and when you have someone as respected as Naomi Campbell who has been modeling since the 80s saying this isn't right, then what excuse really is there to not change?

Wolfgang Schattling On The Mercedes-Benz Partnership Putting Sustainability At The Heart Of Fashion And Cars

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This feature is part of a month-long focus around sustainable fashion across HuffPost UK Style and Lifestyle. Here we aim to champion some of the emerging names in fashion and shine a light on the truth about the impact our appetite for fast fashion has around the world.


Sustainable, green and ecologically friendly are words that get thrown around a lot these days.

But at Eco-Age, the consultancy firm behind the Green Carpet Challenge made so glamorously famous by Livia Firth, there are guidelines to uphold. They call them the “GCC Principles for Sustainable Excellence,” and these include environmentally conscious rules as well as be-kind-to-all-humanity standards.

Luxury car company Mercedes-Benz on the other hand, has been at the forefront of creating a hybrid that, at once maximises performance, efficiency and cleaner emissions.

They were the first company to market a series produced hybrid vehicle with a lithium-ion battery, a more efficient approach to electric power, and always been clear (and clean, if you pardon the pun) that eco-friendly doesn’t mean giving up on glamour.

Their ‘Hybrid by Nature’ campaign combines fashion with luxury automobiles and the results are everything we want from Mercedes-Benz, and more.

So the coming together of Eco-Age, Mercedes-Benz and Erdem, a London-based fashion brand which has become synonymous with powerful and elegant women, is quite simply a natural.

livia and wolfgang
Mercedes-Benz's Wolfgang Schattling, VOGUE's Christiane Arp, Eco-Age creative director Livia Firth and designer Erdem Moralioglu


For the 2015 Green Carpet Collection, multi-cultural designer Erdem Moralioglu promises to wow, spellbind and break a few rules. But only fashion-forward rules, as all ethical, sustainable wear guidelines will apply, of course!

I caught up with Wolfgang Schattling, director of Motorsport Marketing Communications And Branded Entertainment at Mercedes-Benz, and asked him about this groundbreaking collaboration on a special anniversary for his company as well as the fashion world.

Mr. Schattling, what is fashion to you?

It means creativity, the highest levels of craftsmanship and technical expertise - the same requirements that we apply to the design process of our cars. But also, as a brand, we are proud to sponsor and support various fashion projects for over 20 years now. It’s a world we understand very well and respect enormously.

And how do luxury and sustainable fashion come together in your opinion? Is such a “collaboration” possible or are the two concepts destined to contradict each other?

Luxury brands need to understand how to be more sustainable as customers are increasingly more eco-aware and demand that brands meet their needs. Consumers want to enjoy the best quality but also know they are in some way caring for the environment. These values are combined perfectly in The Green Carpet Challenge and are also embedded in Mercedes-Benz's DNA.

What is Mercedes Benz’s commitment to sustainable luxury, specifically?

Sustainability is a core value for Mercedes-Benz. Our products are particularly environmentally friendly and energy-efficient in its market segment. We strive to fulfil environmental standards and deal sparingly with natural resources. Our measures for environmentally compatible and energy-efficient product design take into account the entire product life cycle — spanning development, production and product use, as well as disposal and recycling. That is sustainable luxury for us.

This latest collaboration between Eco-Age and ERDEM marks the first time Mercedes Benz is also on board as official sponsor. Why now, what makes this collaboration extra special?

This year is our 20th anniversary supporting fashion, which began with the sponsorship of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia in Sydney and Melbourne in 1995. Today we are involved in over 50 platforms and events worldwide.

Collaborating with Eco Age’s Green Carpet Challenge and ERDEM in this milestone year felt like a perfect match as it coincided with our sustainable motto for our S/S16 ‘Hybrid by Nature‘ fashion campaign, featuring our all-new Plug-In Hybrid GLC 350 e, which can cover up to 34 km in zero-emission all-electric mode. By 2017 we will have a total of ten plug-in hybrids in our portfolio.

SEE ALSO:

Introducing Study 34, The Knitwear Brand Using Recycled Materials To Create High-End Sustainable Fashion

Designer Tom Cridland Proves Sustainable Fashion Is A Sustainable Business

The (Sustainable) Future of London Fashion Week


When you, Wolfgang Schattling wish to make a conscious, Eco-Age inspired choice, how do you go about it? Is there a checklist consumers should abide to when making a major purchase, or even in their everyday life?

When you decide to make a purchase no matter how big or small, it should be based on the wish to purchase the best possible product. The best is created by the exciting interaction of the heart and the mind. The consumer needs to be engaged emotionally, whilst being convinced on a rational level.

This is what we strive for as a brand at Mercedes-Benz. Emotional means to reach people through pioneering innovation, trendsetting design and exceptional customer care. To convince the mind, we work hard to ensure energising comfort, exemplary safety, perceivable quality and holistic sustainability.

How has the concept of splurging, on a new car or an expensive handbag for example, changed in today’s world?

These days, the trend is going back to people wanting to invest in quality over quantity and luxury over fast fashion.

Splurging today means taking the time to think about your purchase and not giving into the many temptations surrounding us on a daily basis.

It means purchasing a product that will retain its allure as the years go by – like one of our iconic cars.

And finally, three words that describe you?

Authentic, intelligent, emotional.

HuffPost UK Lifestyle is running a special series around Sustainable Fashion for the month of September. Livia Firth is creative director of Eco-Age and founder of The Green Carpet Challenge, and will be guest editing on 18 September. If you'd like to blog or get involved, please email us.

London Fashion Week Live Stream: See The Catwalk Shows As They Happen

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Didn't get tickets to London Fashion Week? No problem, you can see the catwalk shows as they happen on the live stream above.

You can find the full schedule for the live stream from the British Fashion Council below but don't miss DAKS at 3pm on Friday, Saturday's double bill of Jasper Conran at 10am followed by Julien Macdonald at 11am, and Vivienne Westwood's Red Label show at 5pm on Sunday.

If you're lucky enough to have next week off work (and if not you can always have a sneaky watch on your mobile) you'll want to tune in for Burberry at 1pm on Monday and the finale on Sunday, which is in the hands of BFC NEWGEN recipient Ryan Lo, who is hotly tipped to be the designer to watch for Spring/Summer 2016.





SEE ALSO:

The Full Schedule For London Fashion Week Is Here

What It's Really Like to Work as an Intern During Fashion Week

London Fashion Week: Catwalk Hair Trends To Try Now



Friday 18 September

11am: J.JS Lee
12pm: Felder Felder
1pm: Bora Aksu
2pm: Eudon Choi
3pm: DAKS
4pm: Jean-Pierre Braganza
5pm: FYODOR GOLAN
6pm: PPQ

Saturday 19 September

9am: Mother of Pearl
10am: Jasper Conran
11am: Julien Macdonald
12pm: Sibling
1pm: Holly Fulton
2pm:Hunter Original
3pm: Emilia Wickstead
4pm: J.W.Anderson
5pm: 1205
6pm: Simone Rocha
7pm: House of Holland
8pm: Gareth Pugh
9pm: Versus

Sunday 20 September

10am: Margaret Howell
11am: David Koma
12pm: Jonathan Saunders
1pm: Issa
2pm: Topshop Unique
3pm: Temperley London
4pm: Paul Smith
5pm: Vivienne Westwood Red Label
6pm: Mary Katrantzou
8pm: KTZ

Monday 21 September

9am: Antonio Berardi
10am: Roksanda
11am: Erdem
1pm Burberry
2pm: Barbara Casasola
4pm: Thomas Tait
5pm: Peter Pilotto
6pm: Osman
7pm: GILES
8pm: Joseph

Tuesday 22 September

9am: Ashley Williams
10am: Anya Hindmarch
11am: Amanda Wakeley
12pm: Marques'Almeida
1pm: Christopher Raeburn
2pm: Ashish
3pm: Toga
5pm: Ryan Lo

Fashion Scout: Five Reasons to Go Off-schedule at London Fashion Week

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As a host of international editors, buyers and bloggers land in London for the shows, there's undoubtedly much excitement to see some of the city's design greats and what they've decided we'll be wearing for spring/summer 16. Burberry, Vivienne Westwood and J.W. Anderson to name just a few.

But given London is perhaps the most creatively energetic of the cities - and undeniably a hotbed for fresh young design talent - why not put aside a couple of hours to check out some of the off-schedule shows? You'll unearth some of the industry's newest, most exciting talent might just witness the next big thing taking flight.

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Here's five reasons to venture off-schedule this LFW...

1. You'll get a truly global perspective of the new talent out there, as many of the designers and collectives come from China, Scandinavia, Eastern Europe, the Middle East and Asia as well as the UK. The off-schedule scene is an international one and a constant stream of inspirational creativity from start to finish.

2. Fashion Scout is known for seeking out and nurturing the most exciting designers from around the globe. Recent big names from its roster? Peter Pilotto, Felder Felder, David Koma, Eudon Choi and Agi & Sam to pick just a few, which means its more than likely you'll see the early work of a huge design star.

3. Ones to Watch is one of the most exciting shows on the off-schedule line up along with the Merit award, which provides new designers with a fantastic opportunity to get their business off the ground via financial and expert business support every season. For me, Ones to Watch has always been one of the best off-schedule shows, and the collections themselves are full of unique ideas. Also, it's nice to support fledgling design talent.

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4. If you're looking for something avant-garde and fun - and certainly less restrained than the major on-schedule shows - off-schedule is where it's at. In the years I've been going, I've seen some truly memorable shows and designers. In particular designer, artist and general rockstar Pam Hogg is famous for causing a stir and bringing punk spirit to proceedings.

5. The atmosphere is generally a little more relaxed. Whether you're a blogger, editor, stylist, or even recent fashion graduate, if you've managed to get a ticket it's pretty likely you'll get in, unlike the on-schedule shows where the standing queue doesn't get a look in. Yes, it's a little more crowded and hot, but it's also a great taster for London Fashion Week if you haven't been able to get some of the bigger show tickets.

This blog was originally published on WGSN Insider.

London Fashion Week 2015: Your Ultimate Guide to Soho

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When the British Fashion Council announced London Fashion Week would be moving to Brewer Street, I have to confess I was secretly chuffed.

Although Somerset House is iconic - far more attractive than an old, converted car park - it never provided the most palatable offering of eateries and brew houses to see me through the five-day stint.

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Soho, on the other hand, is a veritable feast of palette teasing, tastebud tingling concoctions alongside a cultural mix of galleries, tranquil escapes and pampering havens to help make those 120 hours of madness a little bit easier. Need some guidance on where to find the best hangouts? We've got you covered...

COFFEE: Because sleep is rare during LFW...
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Soho Grind
19 Beak Street
An all day espresso bar with a late-night, cocktail-offering basement space. Get you caffeine fix from morning to night.

Milkbar
3 Bateman Street
Brewed simplicity from a friendly crew in a secluded destination. Coffee comes with a side of food, art and music - the perfect place for those who would never even think of the word Starbucks.

Tap & Co.
193 Wardour Street
Work, play, relax and chat with a pot of proper - and delicious - coffee. These finest ingredients are mixed with a debonair edge. Also, staff at the brewing station are ridiculously charming.

BREAKFAST: Because it genuinely is the most important meal of the day...
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The Breakfast Club
33 D'Arblay Street
A Soho institution, this intimate bolthole is nearly always chockers, but if you're lucky enough to snag a table order the All American Breakfast - goes down a treat, keeps you full up til tea time.

Dean Street Townhouse
69-71 Dean Street
Start the day in style in this old Georgian-era institution, where breakfast fodder ranges from muesli to kedgeree with everything in between. Attentive table service ensures a quick departure for the first show of the day.

Fernandez & Wells
73 Beak Street
With their own blend of single origin beans, the coffee here goes perfectly with a side of buttered toast and jam. Simple yet quintessentially English.

HEALTH SHOT: Because fashion week flu sucks...
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The Juice Well
4 Peter Street
Bottled, natural fuel designed to rejuvenate, cleanse, hydrate and uplift. The trendiest thing on the menu? The Hunger Buster juice - its activated charcoal is the ingredient of the moment when it comes to all things wellness.

Savage Salads
20-24 Broadwick Street
Technically street food, these gourmet, healthy salads with a tasty twist attract a daily queue around the block. Apple and Spotify are said to be fans FYI.

Ethos Recharge Tote
48 Eastcastle Street
This vegetarian haven off Oxford Street is offering a special LFW survival tote featuring vegetable pots, salads and your choice of birch or maple water. Warning: It's brilliant but at £16.50, decidedly not budget friendly.

LUNCH: Because everyone needs a mid-day refuel...
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Jane Tira
26 Brewer Street
Thai street food at the luxury of a table. Choose Son-in-Law Balls to start, and follow with any of the ample choices of rice or noodles. Trust me on the balls.

Rose Bakery
17-18 Dover Street
A slice of Paris in central London for a light lunch including quiche, roasted vegetables, sumptuous salads and sweets to finish - all set within the city's coolest store.

Spuntino
61 Rupert Street
Bare brick walls, popcorn appetizers and distressed metal fixings make this American-meets-Italian diner a haven for hipsters and locals alike. Their classy take on the classic peanut and jelly sandwich is a must-try.

DINNER: Because a daily debrief is best done over supper...
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Yauatcha
15-17 Broadwick Street
A personal favourite. Sample trays of dim sum perfection (like their duck and pumpkin morsels) with copious amounts of colourful cocktails.

Duck & Rice
90 Berwick Street
East meets west in this classic pub style setting that serves up cask ales alongside Chinese bar snacks and quintessential Asian food.

Social Eating House
58 Poland Street
Warm, hearty and just what the doctor ordered after hours sat on hard benches and walking the streets of London in heels. Food fills the belly and ensnares the senses - the macaroni & cheese with black truffle is really the standout dish. Meanwhile The Blind Pig speakeasy bar downstairs provides the perfect post-gorging sanctuary.

TIPPLE: Because all of these incredible shows deserve a little celebration...
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La Bodega Negra
9 Old Compton Street
For an insight into Soho's seedier side, step inside this sex-shop fronted cocktail den for a taste of Mexico. Warning: the tequila-infused potions are completely intoxicating so be sure to order some tacos, tostaditas or Jacob Ladder Ribs.

Old Tom and English
187B Wardour Street
This speakeasy style, Tom Dixon-designed basement bar is hidden behind an unassuming grey fronted door. Step inside, sip on a Sloe Gin Fizz and be instantly be whisked away from the fashion week hubbub.

Basement Sate
8 Broadwick Street
Cocktails and cake make the perfect combination at this late-night underground bar. The Jessica Rabbit tipple (gin, carrot juice, golden syrup and elderflower) sits perfectly alongside the Peanut Butter Jelly Time dessert - decadence at its most inventive.

This blog was originally published on WGSN Insider.

Naomi Campbell's Topless #FreeTheNipple Photo Mysteriously Disappears From Instagram

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A topless photo of Naomi Campbell has disappeared from her Instagram page.

The supermodel shared the snap with the anti-censorship hashtag #FreeTheNipple on the evening of 15 September.

At the time HuffPost UK Style reported that the following morning Instagram hadn't taken the photo down, despite their reputation for censoring photos in which female nipples are exposed.

However, two days later that seems to have changed. The photo is no longer on Campbell's Instagram page.

HuffPost UK Style contacted Instagram to find out if Campbell's picture had been taken down for breeching their community guidelines, but they declined to comment on the individual case, simply stating:

"Images are removed from Instagram for one of two reasons:

"1) The Instagram community member chooses to take the image down.

"2) We remove images reported to us by the Instagram community which breach our guidelines."

However Naomi's nipples are still free on her Twitter account:





London Fashion Week 2015: The Ultimate Glossary Of Fashion Week Terms You Need To Know

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If you'll be hitting up your first ever Fashion Week this September then read on.

Fashion folk can get carried away with their big words and, ultimately, end up speaking in their own language. Meanwhile the rest of us mere mortals are left scratching our heads thinking "WTF are they on about?".

From yokes to knife pleats to D'Orsay shoes, to help ease you into the swing of things here's a breakdown of some of the fashion-related lingo you need to know for fashion weeks to come.



SEE ALSO:

You Know It's Fashion Week When...

8 Types Of People Found At Fashion Week (As Illustrated By Animals)

The Spirit of Collaboration in Supply Chains Will Change the Future of the Fashion Industry

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This blog is part of a month-long focus around sustainable fashion across HuffPost UK Style and Lifestyle. Here we aim to champion some of the emerging names in fashion and shine a light on the truth about the impact our appetite for fast fashion has around the world.

Historically, supply chains have been viewed as simply "providers" of materials, products and services where demands were made and delivered upon without a more detailed understanding of the supply chain. Globalisation and increased competition have led many companies to lose sight of their supply chains and their suppliers. In turn, this has led to a power hierarchy throughout the supply chain where everyone is trying to make their own margin.

Inevitably this type of paradigm leads to the externalisation of social and environmental considerations. In my view, modern supply chains need to be built on trust, which comes through developing relationships that engender mutual understanding and shared responsibility. In fact, if a company truly takes quality and sustainability in terms of social and environmental considerations seriously then the only option is to build personal relationships with one's suppliers. And although building resilient, sustainable and robust supply chains is often complex and requires the input and "buy-in" of many players across the supply chain, the benefits far outweigh the efforts of doing so.

This dynamic can deliver immediate business value in terms of the supplier being more focused on quality, timely delivery, meeting budgets, etcetera. However, the real challenge is to take these relationships beyond basic business terms and into a real collaborative spirit focused on improving the supply chain and integrating social and environmental sustainability, which will also generate business value and returns for a long time into the future.

Companies need suppliers to engage with them in order to create transparency together on best practices across the supply chain, but beyond this we can also develop innovative solutions. And if we work closely together there are tremendous possibilities for new technologies and new, more sustainable sourcing opportunities.

As a case in point, at Kering our CEO and Chairman, François-Henri Pinault, decided to implement an Environmental Profit and Loss Account (E P&L) across our brands and the resulting Group E P&L revealed that around 75% of our environmental impacts are related to raw material production and processing. Consequently we are focusing on leveraging efficiency in processing and setting up programmes to source sustainable raw materials. To do so, requires the engagement and trust of suppliers who are willing to open up their own network and work closely with us to figure out how to integrate new more sustainable sources
- everything from testing a material's quality through to the complexity of logistics and basic availability of sustainable alternatives.

That said, on a wider industry level it is not as simple as it seems. To invest in a new technology or create a fibre or a fabric at a supplier's own expense is a significant risk if demand from their customers is not forthcoming. Thus, suppliers need partners as much as companies need them to collaborate. In fact, it is often the suppliers dealing with the challenges day to day who see what needs to be improved but do not have the resources to implement the necessary changes, nor have the certainty to know whether their investments will pay off.

Consequently, for our industry to become more sustainable as a whole the traditional paradigm of purchasing finished products, fabrics or yarns must be converted into a new approach where companies work with, and partner with suppliers. Whether it be to ensure the integration of innovative sustainable raw materials, animal welfare or the highest standards of working conditions, as well as traceability, controls and contracts, we need to have personal relationships with our suppliers. In my view, lasting leadership will come from companies that define success as building robust and collaborative supply chains built on trust, long term commitment and a real understanding of the hurdles and solutions that need to be put into practice.

HuffPost UK Lifestyle is running a special series around Sustainable Fashion for the month of September. Livia Firth is creative director of Eco-Age and founder of The Green Carpet Challenge, and will be guest editing on 18 September. If you'd like to blog or get involved, please email us.

London Fashion Week 2015: Zandra Rhodes Opens With Pinks, Oranges And Embellished Trainers For S/S 2016

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Although there was an autumn nip in the air, you wouldn't have known it inside the gilded room at Cafe Royale where Zandra Rhodes made her Spring/Summer 2016 presentation for London Fashion Week.

Indoors, it was summer all the way.

The collection was divided into two colour palettes - on one side was pink - ranging from hot pinks to baby pastels, the other was a royal blue cut through with bright, zingy orange.

The bejewelled accessories could have been the wrong side of Benidorm but they weren't - crazy deconstructed visors and studded trainers were ogled. The makeup was extremely fun- slightly flower-power with bright zigzags of colour and stick-on jewels.

We'll be taking beauty notes for festival chic next year.

zandra rhodes

Catching up with the designer at the show, she said: "The collection features handpainted banana leaves and hand drawn silk, all done in Malaysia. I've paired it up with some of the original old print in a chiffon kaftan so that it could be for an older or younger audience. I think they are beautifully easy things to wear.

Asked about 70s trousers, she said: "They are easy to wear in any circumstance. What we can do to treasure hand drawing and industries like that is great."

Although the pink and white jeans are not quite for us, the majority of the collection was eminently wearable - flattering lines and comfortable yet stylish fabric.

Take a look at highlights of the collection:



SEE ALSO:

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London Fashion Week Live Stream: See The Catwalk Shows As They Happen

Beth Ditto Takes A Step For Plus-Size Models As She Closes New York Fashion Week At Marc Jacobs Show

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Beth Ditto walked the Marc Jacobs catwalk last night - the final show of New York Fashion Week.

Ditto, singer of The Gossip and plus-size clothing designer in her own right, walked the catwalk in a white gown befitting a 1940s Hollywood movie star, alongside models of the moments, Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Lineisy Montero, as well as Emily Ratajkowski - who made her catwalk debut.

beth ditto

This isn't the first time Ditto has walked the red carpet, she previously made an appearance for Jean-Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week in 2010.

Three years later she launched her own collection in Evans and she has voiced her support for the continuing conversation around plus-size models.

"I think it’s really important that people are talking about your body, because if they don't, then you’ll never be able to break that barrier," she told The Advocate.

Jacobs Spring/Summer 16 show was a theatrical display worthy of it's Zigfield Theatre setting, with a collection inspired by classic Hollywood glamour.

A star-studded audience was in attendance - with Winoa Ryder, Sofia Coppola, Kate Mara, Jamie Bell and Debbie Harry, watching Ditto take her turn.

SEE ALSO:

Victoria Beckham Slammed For Using 'Skinny Models' In NYFW Show

Plus-Size Model Ashley Graham Stuns On #NYFW Runway


Marc Jacobs Made A T-Shirt About His Nude Instagram Fail


The Huffington Post recently launched our #NYFW4All and #LFW4All campaign to highlight moments in Fashion Week that include people of all skin tones, genders, sizes, shapes and personalities.

So we're happy to see Ditto take her place among thinner models, however her appearance still felt tokenistic.

In 2013 Marc Jacobs was among the designers who were called out by the Diversity Coalition, an organisation that presses for more diverse representation on the runway, for not having enough models of color on the runway.

His Spring/Summer 2016 show may have been a step in the right direction, but the models of differing sizes and skin tones still seemed a little lost amid a sea of thin white models.

A photo posted by Marc Jacobs (@marcjacobs) on






So while we were over-the-moon to see Ditto on the catwalk, all we can say is more Marc, more.

Victoria Beckham At LFW S/S 2016: Surf-Inspired Autumn Coat From Her Latest Collection Is Everything

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Surfing and autumn may not be the most obvious word association, but Victoria Beckham rocked up at London Fashion Week wearing a Hawaii-inspired jacket from her latest collection.

Boy, do we want it.

london fashion week

london fashion week

victoria beckham

london fashion week

Previously, Beckham said her surf-inspired collection was a new direction as she wasn't known for using prints, but added: "I think it's important to challenge myself. I don't want to be a designer where everyone knows what they're going to see."

SEE ALSO:

London Fashion Week 2015: Zandra Rhodes Opens With Pinks, Oranges And Embellished Trainers For S/S 2016


London Fashion: Vintage Photos Show 60s Style In All Its Glory


KFC Fashion Collaboration With Katie Eary Is The Stuff Of Nightmares

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When the words 'KFC fashion collaboration' popped into our inbox, we must admit we were intrigued.

After all, we're not too snobby to admit the restorative effects of a Zinger Tower burger after a Saturday night out.

But then we clicked on the picture and saw this bad chicken boy. And we're not using the cool version of the word bad.

dress

What is this you say? A peek at the costumes for a sequel to The Fifth Element? Sadly not.

London Fashion Week: Read Our HuffPost UK Style Coverage Here

It's a collaboration between designer Katie Eary and KFC to promote their riceboxes.

The fast food company set her a challenge: to create a capsule collection within an hour to highlight the importance of taking a lunch break (and presumably buying a ricebox while you're at it).

Frankly, we're baffled.

Katie is a respected designer (we'll forgive her collaboration with Kanye West's debut fashion line) who has partnered with the likes of River Island and worked with Mario Testino.

But perhaps designing a capsule collection in an hour is beyond even the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and can't be done.

(Assuming you want any humans to wear the clothes, that is.)

Here's a look at the full collection - including more weird chicken shoes:



SEE ALSO:

London Fashion Week 2015: The Ultimate Glossary Of Fashion Week Terms You Need To Know



Naomi Campbell's Topless #FreeTheNipple Photo Has Mysteriously Disappeared

London Fashion Week: Prepare To Be Surrounded By Crochet Headed Creatures In Spring 2016

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Spring/Summer 2016 will be the season of deconstructed crochet tea cosy headgear, at least according to one up-and-coming designer showing their collection during London Fashion Week.

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A model on the runway at Angel Chen's show at Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week


The pink bonnet/balaclava cross - which has been made out of a material that bears a striking resemblance to pipe cleaners, - was created by Angel Chen who graduated from Central Saint Martin's in 2014.

Chen was awarded the Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Award sponsorship for AW15/16.

If your crochet skills are anything like ours, you might want to get started now if you want to have your own version ready for Spring.

london fashion week angel chen

SEE ALSO:

The Ultimate Glossary Of Fashion Week Terms You Need To Know

London Fashion Week 2015: Zandra Rhodes Opens With Pinks, Oranges And Embellished Trainers For S/S 2016

Victoria Beckham At LFW S/S 2016: Surf-Inspired Autumn Coat From Her Latest Collection Is Everything


Can Fashion Save the World? Meet the Famous Designers Campaigning for Change...

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This blog is part of a month-long focus around sustainable fashion across HuffPost UK Style and Lifestyle. Here we aim to champion some of the emerging names in fashion and shine a light on the truth about the impact our appetite for fast fashion has around the world.

I've largely hung up my runway stilettos - once I hit 20, no amount of Bikram and green juice were ever going to shrink my hips back down to catwalk sample sizes. For a few years, I saw Fashion Week as an opportunity to put my feet up and enjoy a cuppa whilst watching harried 16 year olds run around the outskirts of London for castings, then stomping down the runway wearing nothing but two left clogs four sizes too big and a huge hat hiding their entire face. Though I mock it, I do miss that heart racing moment of stepping onto the catwalk towards the flashing bulbs and pulsing music - plus the elation at the end of not having falling arse-over-tit for all of Youtube to enjoy.

However, now that I'm a writer with my own website, Modeltypeface (that's right! I am a model 'slash'!), I get the opportunity to attend the press days of designers and brands that excite me, and this week has been a whirlwind of canapés and inspiring causes. First up was the launch of People Tree's new collection with Zandra Rhodes, set in the great Dame's very own flat. If you haven't been to Zandra's place, I hope you get a chance I your life. It's my DREAM home: a floor to ceiling rainbow, filled with fascinating statues and ceramics and a view of The Shard. As well as shooting her new collection, I gave a little speech at the event about why being an ambassador for People Tree means so much to me. Whilst it all felt very exciting, it was tinged with sadness, because what People Tree do - pay workers a fair price and encourage sustainable farming practice - shouldn't be the exception. It should be the norm.

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Here I am with CEO of People Tree, the eco dynamo Safia Minney and the legend herself, Zandra Rhodes. I'm wearing a dress from her new collection: my personal fave.


The next day I was off to the Thames to meet the inimitable designer Agnes b. They say never meet your heroes, but luckily Agnes was every bit as bright enchanting as I had hoped for. I interviewed Agnes on the TARA boat, which she has bought with her own money in the hope of contributing to ecological research. TARA has been sailing across the world gathering samples from the sea to test levels of plankton and how healthy the ocean's ecosystem is. The findings aren't pretty - for example, every single sample of thousands from the Mediterranean had traces of plastic, and the crew had witnessed first hand how rapidly the ice caps are melting over the winter. This project will hopefully draw our attention to the plight of the oceans, and the findings will be presented to the next UN Climate Conference.

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Everyone seemed to think I was working for Greenpeace, despite me saying I was from Modeltypeface! I think it was my favourite green Suzannah dress that did it...)


Fashion has a reputation for being a greedy and wasteful business, and rightly so: my industry is the second biggest polluter after oil, and I've seen firsthand in Dhaka the shocking conditions sweatshop workers toil in. However, this week was really inspiring. It showed me that we can work from within to effect change, and I'm heartened to see such icons of the fashion industry putting their hearts and their names to causes that will have a positive effect on our planet and future generations.

HuffPost UK Lifestyle is running a special series around Sustainable Fashion for the month of September. Livia Firth is creative director of Eco-Age and founder of The Green Carpet Challenge, and will be guest editing on 18 September. If you'd like to blog or get involved, please email us.

How Not to Lose Your Identity When Dressing for Work

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When dressing for work every day, it's so easy to get consumed by the stresses of what to wear. The most important thing to keep in mind when balancing dressing for work and allowing your identity to show through your clothes is keeping your own personal touches at the forefront.

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I find that I'm much happier with the way I dress in winter than summer, I love layering. With colder weather just around the corner, layering different colours and textures is a great way to brighten up your work wear. It's easy to get stuck into the habit of wearing the same old outfits and shying away from colour, but there are simple ways to incorporate colour and interesting shapes and tones into your own wardrobe. Khaki is the new black for me - my favourite tones are sand and taupe, which alongside other neutral colours like navy are great to team up with a bolder colour. Burnt orange is a beautiful, soft colour to use for contrast and adds warmth to any outfit. Gold, silver or rose gold accessories will add a classy final touch.

Even though I wish I was taller, I only wear flats in the studio. It means I can be myself in the work space, and let my creativity flow and feel less restricted. Keeping comfortable is a hugely important factor to bear in mind when dressing for a long day at the office, but it's important to know how far to take this. Ask yourself - are ripped jeans only for weekends? Depending on your career choice, they could be appropriate in different situations, but make sure you assess whether this would fit with your workplace. This applies to footwear too - are heels always appropriate? Do you wear them in the office because you feel you should, but actually find them uncomfortable?

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I think that planning is key. Setting out your outfit the night before saves you stress in the morning and means that you can be confident in what you're wearing. If you're like me and exercise in the mornings before work, set aside time to plan your outfits during an evening in the week. There will always be time when you're locked in the wardrobe despairing over what to wear, it happens to us all, but planning in advance helps to avoid these situations. Imagine the outfit together as a complete look and ask - does it work? Does it reflect who I am?

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Take your time, embrace your own style - and more importantly than anything else, dress for you. There's a lot to be said for dressing for the job you want, not the job you have - but FYI, don't turn up to work dressed like Superman!

What It Really Takes to Get a Job In Fashion: Part One

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If you're one of the thousands of fashion designers graduating each year and you're anything like me, you've watched countless series from Ugly Betty to Project Runway dreaming of a life working in fashion. But with so many graduates each year just from the UK alone the competition to get a job is as brutal as ever. For many hopefuls hungry for a chance to get their foot in the fashion door and so few jobs, the outlook is grim. But what does it really take to get a job?

For the past year I have worked as a Design Assistant at Marc Jacobs, working between New York and Paris on the Ready To Wear and Resort Collections, whilst also collaborating with ASOS on the collection AVROBERTSON X ASOS BLACK. Although I managed to essentially achieve two jobs, more than a year after graduation many others haven't been so lucky and are still searching for their dream jobs.

A little over a year ago I too felt this same pressure, the daunting feeling of graduating, after months of stress and hard work the day I'd dreamed of was finally here, and then it hit me 'what am I going to do now?' After spending my childhood fantasising about and working towards having a place on the famous Central Saint Martins fashion course, I was transfixed and focused on my graduate collection. For the four years of the course I was like most fashion students visualising my final collection and dreaming of one day having my own brand. But once all the excitement and the build up to the final year show was over, the anxiety began to kick in of what I was going to do with my life. The unsettling feeling that most new graduates can relate to makes you question and re-access your abilities and dreams, and as time ticks on and summer draws to an end many are left thinking 'How will I ever get a job?'

After all this time since graduation I'm still saddened to hear of people struggling to find a job and of many companies only looking for experienced designers. True as it may be, hiring a first time worker is a risk that some houses don't want to take, but doesn't everyone have to start somewhere? Whether that starting somewhere is interning and making coffees, it will in the long run help you get a job. As long as your boss isn't The Devil Wears Prada's Miranda Priestly and you're running around trying to find her the next unpublished instalment of Harry Potter, it won't be so bad. Its more than likely that proving yourself whilst interning can lead to better opportunities, whether its a job there or at another brand, its all experience.

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Having a few good internships on your CV before applying for jobs is definitely a must, whilst giving you an insight into how the industry works and learning new skills you can also make some much needed contacts. As the moral goes in The Devil Wears Prada "Work here for a year and you can work anywhere."

Working in fashion might seem impossible at first and with graduates from the top ranking universities struggling to find work, it's a wonder how other graduates can compete. Needless to say it's not always about where you studied, if you can show as equally good a portfolio and take the time to do so, as this is where you will set yourself apart from the other applicants. Really utilise all of your skills and show what you can do, as most companies now aren't just looking for a one job Joey. You need a wide set of skills from computer skills to drawing and you're more than likely to have a challenging job trying to juggle different tasks, where you will need all of these skills.

But those of us who have worked in the industry or studied a demanding course know the long relentless hours it can take to get the work done, destroying the preconceived idea that its all fashion parties and free designer clothes. So if you're watching Sex And The City religiously, dreaming of attending fashion parties and dressing fabulous, chances are you're in the wrong line of work. Although you may get the occasional party, you're more likely to be working late whilst wearing your sweats and your bag you fought for at the last sample sale. But if you really love what you are doing like I did, then it will be fun. If you're not committed to the job or willing to make sacrifices on your social life then maybe don't look for a job in high fashion. In a competitive field where thousands are after the same dream job, maybe lower your expectations and take what you can, it could lead to something better in the future.

London Fashion Week: Alexa Chung And Victoria Beckham Mingle With Models And Designers At Vogue Party

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Victoria Beckham and Alexa Chung partied with the likes of Matthew Williamson, Erin O'Connor and Poppy Delevingne last night at a London Fashion Week party.

The party at the American Ambassadors Residence in Regent's Park was hosted by Ambassador Matthew Barzun and Mrs Brooke Brown Barzun with Vogue UK editor Alexandra Shulman, in association with J. Crew.

Both Chung and Beckham played it safe in their fashion choices, with Chung opting for a vintage inspired lace dress and Beckham sticking with her failsafe choice of a black number from her own collection.

As with all good parties the photos from the event start off polished and staied, but Chung, Delevingne and her husband James Cook injected a bit more fun into the proceedings as the night drew on.

SEE ALSO:

Victoria Beckham's Surf-Inspired Autumn At LFW Is Everything

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The One High-Street Piece Alexa Chung Wants This Season


London Fashion Week Trends: Festival Headwear Will Take A Nautical Slant In 2016

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A hat is an essential item on your festival packing checklist and every year sees new trends emerging.

This year's festivals brought out plenty of wide brims, but early London Fashion Week shows suggest that we'll be plumping for a more nautical look in 2016.

At the Mother of Pearl show models took to the catwalk in classic straw boaters.

mother of pearl
mother of pearl

SEE ALSO:

London Fashion Week Live Stream

Festival Fashion Fears Revealed

Prepare To Be Surrounded By Crochet Headed Creatures In Spring 2016


mother of pearl
mother of pearl

It's tricky to find boaters out of season, but if you simply can't wait until Spring, ASOS stock a reclaimed vintage hat that also incorporates another trend on show at Mother of Pearl - florals.

asos boater hat

Reclaimed Vintage Straw Boater Hat £20, ASOS.


London Fashion Week: Julien Macdonald Catches The Bride As Model Falls At His Spring/Summer 2016 Show

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Julien Macdonald proved he provides a lot of support for the models cast in his shows, when he quite literally held up a model who fell on the catwalk at London Fashion Week.

Fashion designers aren't believed to have much of a sense of humour when it comes to mistakes in their shows, but Macdonald's warm smile as he leapt to action during the finale of his Spring/Summer 2016 catwalk was captured in a candid shot by Vogue.





SEE ALSO:

#LFW: Both Men And Women Will Sparkle In Spring 2016 Thanks To Julien Macdonald

What To Wear To London Fashion Week

Prepare To Be Surrounded By Crochet Headed Creatures In Spring 2016

Beth Ditto Takes A Step For Catwalk Diversity At New York Fashion Week
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